I do have a sticker on ours that came from Rosco, giving the following
 decamired equivalents for their light filters (please note that this is
 several years old, prior to their reformulation of their booster blue filters,
 so I don't know whether it is still valid, haven't checked it:)
LB Index--
+167= Full CTO              -131= Full Blue
+131= Sun 85                - 68 = Half Blue
+  81= Half CTO             - 49 = Third Blue
+  40= Quarter CTO       - 30 = Quarter Blue
+  20= Eighth CTO          - 12 = Eighth Blue
+  12= UV filter
CC Index--
+3 = Tough Quarter Minusgreen      -2= Tough Quarter Plusgreen
+6 = Tough Half Minusgreen            -5= Tough Half Plusgreen
+13=Tough Minusgreen                  -12= Tough Plusgreen
Hope this is useful.
--Wade Ramsey

The listing Wade gave on the CML is useful with the older Minolta Color
Meter II that had a very short range in the green-majenta from +13 to -13,
making it difficult to fine tune the green shift of a light.
The newer meter, the Minolta Color Meter IIIF, has an expanded
green-magenta scale.  The data for the Rosco Gell conversion for this newer
meter is listed below:
	Rosco Cinegel
	LB Light Balancing Index
	+167	Full CTO	-131	Full CTB
	+131	Sun 85		-68	1/2 CTB
	+81	1/2 CTO		-49	1/3 CTB
	+40	1/4 CTO		-30	1/4 CTB
	+20	1/8 CTO		-12	1/8 CTB
	+12	UV Filter
	CC Color Compensating Index
	8M	1/4 Minusgreen		5G	1/4 Plusgreen
	15M	1/2 Minusgreen		13G	1/2 Plusgreen
	30M	Full Minusgreen		37G	Full Plusgreen
The idea being that you read the light with the meter, then take the two
readings, say for instance +80 in the LB incex and 14M in the CC index.
You then consult the table on the back.   A +80 in the LB index indicates
that you place a 1/2 CTO on the light and the 14M indicates that you also
place a 1/2 Minusgreen on the light.  The Minusgreen gell is magenta
colored.  (don't get me started...)
After having placed these gells on the light, you should be able to read
the light with the meter again and achieve a near zero reading which
indicates that the light is now "neutral" for the type film that you preset
in the side of the meter.  (Type B, Type A or Daylight)
Anyway, you cut and paste the above raw data into your word processor,
reduce it to something that will fit on the back of the Color Meter head,
and then you have a ready reference of what gell to tell the crew to put on
different lights to make them neutral, or whatever.
Bill Bennett